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Shed Base Calculator

Calculate how much sub-base and surface gravel you need for a solid shed base. Covers MOT Type 1 with compaction allowance and your choice of decorative surface gravel.

m

Base dimensions: 2.74m × 2.13m (5.84 m²) — shed + 150mm overhang each side

Sub-Base (MOT Type 1)

Loose Depth

125mm

Volume

0.73

Weight

1.46tonnes

Bulk Bags (850kg)

2bags

Surface Gravel (Golden Gravel)

Depth

50mm

Volume

0.29

Weight

0.47tonnes

Bulk Bags (850kg)

1bag

Small Bags (20kg)

24bags

2.44m × 1.83m shed with 150mm overhang = 5.84 m² base. Sub-base: 1.46 tonnes MOT Type 1. Surface: 0.47 tonnes Golden Gravel.

Gravel Quantities by Shed Size

Quick reference for standard UK shed sizes with 150mm overhang per side, 100mm compacted sub-base (125mm loose), and 50mm surface gravel.

Shed SizeBase DimensionsBase AreaMOT Type 1Surface Gravel
6×4ft2.13m × 1.52m3.24 m²0.81 t0.26 t
8×6ft2.74m × 2.13m5.84 m²1.46 t0.47 t
10×8ft3.35m × 2.74m9.18 m²2.30 t0.73 t
12×8ft3.96m × 2.74m10.85 m²2.71 t0.87 t

Worked Examples

8×6ft Shed Base

2.44m × 1.83m shed with 150mm overhang per side. Sub-base at 100mm compacted, surface gravel at 50mm.

  • Base: 2.74m × 2.13m = 5.84 m²
  • Sub-base (loose): 5.84 × 0.125 = 0.73 m³
  • Sub-base weight: 0.73 × 2.0 = 1.46 tonnes
  • Surface gravel: 5.84 × 0.05 × 1.6 = 0.47 tonnes

10×8ft Workshop Base

3.05m × 2.44m shed with 200mm overhang per side. Sub-base at 100mm compacted, surface gravel at 50mm.

  • Base: 3.45m × 2.84m = 9.80 m²
  • Sub-base (loose): 9.80 × 0.125 = 1.22 m³
  • Sub-base weight: 1.22 × 2.0 = 2.45 tonnes
  • Surface gravel: 9.80 × 0.05 × 1.6 = 0.78 tonnes

Why Your Shed Needs a Proper Base

A shed placed directly on soil will settle unevenly, trap moisture against the timber floor, and develop rot within a few years. A properly prepared gravel base solves all of these problems at once. The compacted sub-base layer creates a solid, level platform that distributes the shed's weight evenly, preventing the corners from sinking into soft ground. The surface gravel layer provides drainage, keeping water flowing away from the building rather than pooling underneath it.

Even on apparently firm ground, the weight of a fully loaded shed (tools, mower, bikes, etc.) can cause gradual sinking without a proper base. Most UK soils — particularly clay — expand and contract with moisture and temperature changes, creating seasonal movement that will rack and twist a shed over time. A gravel base absorbs this movement and keeps the shed level and square.

The Two-Layer System

The best shed bases use two distinct aggregate layers, each serving a different purpose. The bottom layer is MOT Type 1 — a crushed aggregate graded from dust to 40mm that compacts into an extremely dense, stable sub-base. This provides the structural foundation: it won't shift, settle, or deform under the weight of the shed. Order 125mm of loose material to achieve 100mm compacted depth after vibratory plate compaction.

The top layer is 50mm of decorative gravel — typically 20mm stone such as golden gravel, grey granite, or limestone chippings. This surface layer provides a clean, attractive finish, sheds rainwater away from the shed walls, and creates an all-weather area around the shed entrance. It sits loose on top of the compacted sub-base, so it can be topped up easily if it thins over time.

Gravel vs Concrete for Shed Bases

Concrete slabs have been the traditional choice for shed bases, but gravel bases have gained significant popularity for good reason. A gravel base is typically 50–70% cheaper in materials, can be completed in an afternoon by one person, and requires no specialist skills or equipment beyond a wacker plate (available from any tool hire shop for around £30–50 per day).

Concrete traps moisture and can cause condensation on the underside of the shed floor, accelerating rot. It also cracks if the ground moves, creating uneven spots that the shed will follow. A gravel base provides natural drainage, adapts slightly to ground movement without cracking, and can be adjusted or completely removed if you ever want to reposition the shed. The only scenario where concrete is clearly better is for very large, heavy buildings like concrete garages or workshops with heavy machinery.

Ground Preparation Steps

Mark out the base area using string lines and pegs, remembering to include the overhang on each side. Strip the turf and topsoil to a depth of 150–200mm, removing any roots and organic matter. If the exposed soil is soft or boggy, dig deeper and consider improving drainage before proceeding. Compact the exposed subsoil with a wacker plate to create a firm foundation.

Lay a heavy-duty weed membrane (minimum 100gsm) across the entire excavation, overlapping any joins by 150mm and folding it up the sides. Add MOT Type 1 in layers no thicker than 75mm, compacting each layer thoroughly before adding the next. Check levels frequently with a spirit level — the finished sub-base should be flat to within a few millimetres across the entire area. Once the sub-base is level and solid, spread the surface gravel evenly and rake smooth.

Need Sub-Base for Another Project?

Use our dedicated sub-base calculator for driveways, patios, and paths with adjustable compaction depth.

Open Sub-Base Calculator

Frequently Asked Questions

How big should a gravel base be compared to the shed?
Your gravel base should extend at least 150mm (6 inches) beyond the shed footprint on all sides. This overhang ensures the shed sits entirely on the base, provides space for rainwater to drip clear of the structure, and makes positioning the shed easier. For larger sheds (10×8 or bigger), some installers recommend a 200–300mm overhang for extra stability.
How deep should a gravel shed base be?
A standard gravel shed base uses two layers: 100mm of compacted MOT Type 1 sub-base (order 125mm loose to allow for 25% compaction) plus 50mm of decorative surface gravel on top. This gives a total finished depth of about 150mm — more than enough for sheds up to around 12×10ft. For very large or workshop-type buildings, increase the sub-base to 150mm compacted.
Why use gravel instead of concrete for a shed base?
Gravel bases are cheaper, faster to build, require no curing time, and provide excellent natural drainage. A concrete base can trap moisture underneath the shed, leading to damp and rot in the timber floor. Gravel allows air to circulate beneath the building and water to drain freely. Gravel bases also don't crack with ground movement and can be easily adjusted or removed if you ever relocate the shed.
What type of gravel is best for a shed base?
Use MOT Type 1 (crushed limestone 0–40mm) for the sub-base layer — it compacts into a solid, load-bearing platform. For the surface layer, 20mm gravel such as golden gravel, grey granite, or limestone chippings works well. Avoid pea gravel or rounded stones for the surface as they shift too easily under the weight of the shed.
Do I need a weed membrane under a shed base?
Yes — lay a heavy-duty weed membrane on the bare ground before adding the sub-base. This prevents weeds growing up through the gravel and stops the sub-base mixing into soft soil beneath. Use a minimum 100gsm geotextile membrane and overlap any joins by at least 150mm.
Can I put a shed straight onto gravel?
You can place a shed directly onto a well-prepared gravel base, but using pressure-treated timber bearers between the shed floor and the gravel is highly recommended. Bearers (typically 75mm × 50mm or 100mm × 50mm treated timber) lift the shed off the surface, improving air circulation and preventing moisture damage to the floor. Space them at 400mm centres running the width of the shed.
How much does a gravel shed base cost?
For a standard 8×6ft shed, you'll need approximately 0.7 tonnes of MOT Type 1 and 0.25 tonnes of surface gravel — costing roughly £35–£55 in materials depending on your supplier. Add another £20–£30 for weed membrane. This is typically a third of the cost of a concrete pad and can be completed in a single afternoon.
Do I need to level the ground before laying a gravel shed base?
Yes — the ground should be roughly levelled before you start. Remove turf and topsoil to a depth of about 150–200mm, creating a shallow excavation. For sloped sites, you may need to cut into the uphill side and build up the downhill side. Use a spirit level across the excavation before adding sub-base, and compact the soil at the bottom to prevent future settling.

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